You need to ensure you purchase the correct product for your home. Most underfloor products come in a range of widths to suit the joist sizes of your home. Over the years we have found polyester blankets to be the best value for money and the easiest product to install. Autex GreenStuf is an example of this. Measure joist widths before purchasing and then allow some additional width to fold down and staple to the joists. 500mm width is the most common. You will need safety glasses and a 14mm stapler for installing. Ensure you isolate power and do not staple near any power cables…
If retrofitting an existing home you will find most trusses are spaced at 900 centres. Generally you will fit 2 segment pieces between trusses, or one 870 wide blanket. Some blankets are 1200 wide so will require trimming. It is best to install in the morning before it gets too hot. You will need a knife and a light. Make sure you stand on the bottom of the trusses or joists to avoid and damage to the ceiling. Ceiling Insulation should never touch the roof so needs to be trimmed at edges – remember the product can take a couple of weeks to fully lift once out of the bag.
There are many different wall insulation products available. The most cost effective products are fibreglass. Wall framing width will determine what r-values you can achieve in the wall. 90mm framing will generally allow you to buy r2.2 – r2.8. 140mm framing will allow r3.2 – r4. The second factor is the spacing of framing. Most modern framing on a single level home will be at 600 centres meaning a 580 wide product is required. Sometimes you will come across 400mm framing meaning 380 product is needed. Fiberglass products are easily trimmed with a Stanley knife.
You must turn the mains power 'Off'' before entering the work space, and, if in any doubt about how to turn the power 'Off'', you must consult a licensed electrician. Working in areas that contain live electrical wiring is extremely hazardous. Take extreme care to avoid touching any live overhead electrical lines, supply cables or any other live cables in the workspace.
Defective electrical cables, exposed terminals and conductors of electrical equipment such as light fittings and fans can cause burns and electric shocks please exercise caution when working near such hazards – check with an electrician if you are unsure if the cabling is safe.
Working in hot and poorly ventilated areas when installing insulation can be dangerous.
Working at heights, when installing insulation can be dangerous.
You must turn the mains power 'Off'' and, if in any doubt about how to turn the power 'Off'', consult a licensed electrician. Do not enter the workspace for the purposes of the pre-work inspection or the installation until you are satisfied that the power has been isolated. Even after isolating the power via the switchboard there may still be an electrical mains cable in either the ceiling or underfloor space that is live. Complete a pre-work assessment before installation to identify safety hazards which may include but are not limited to the following:
Before commencing work you must have systems in place to reduce risks identified in the pre-work assessment such as but which are not limited to:
Work with another person and maintain contact throughout both the assessment and installation process.
Wear appropriate clothing for the job such as long sleeved top, flat rubber sole shoes, gloves conforming to Australian Standard AS2161 and ventilated non-fogging dust resistant goggles conforming to AS/NZ 1336, and a P2 dust mask.
Avoid eye contact with dust or glasswool to minimise eye or skin contact and inhalation during handling.
Avoid installing insulation in hot weather and at the hottest part of the day.
Under no circumstances must fixing devices in ceiling spaces or under floors, or in proximity to electrical wiring, be of metal or other conductive material.
Locate and review the incoming power supply, main switchboard and meter box.
Ensure you understand if there is a main isolator and how power can be safely isolated.
Ensure you understand the direction of the ‘On’ and ‘Off’ position of the main switch (NOTE: the ‘Off’ position is not always as it seems - check with an electrician if you are unsure).
Before installation, switch 'Off'' the electricity supply at the main switchboard (check with an electrician if you are unsure if power can be turned 'Off'' at the switchboard).
Be aware that even after isolating the power via the switchboard there may still be an electrical mains cable in either the ceiling or underfloor space that is live. Take extreme care to avoid touching any live overhead electrical lines, supply cables or any other live cables in the workspace.
Circuit boards are typically found in modern homes.
Check if there are any switches currently in the ‘Off’ position, take note of them.
Place a strip of electrical tape over main switch isolator after it is turned ‘Off’.
Apply additional strips of electrical tape over any deactivated fuses or individual switches in the ‘Off’ position after isolating the mains power as a reminder to leave it in the ‘Off’ position once the re-activation procedure has been completed.
Turn ‘Off’ all individual switches on the circuit board.
Place a written note on the switches or meter box enclosure to advise the power is 'Off'' and work in progress is occurring.
Check to ensure the lights and appliances within the home previously left on are no longer operating to confirm the mains power is now isolated.
The originator that placed the isolation tag is the only one who can re-activate the power.
After the completion of the installation, switch the mains power to the ‘On’ position (for ceramic fuse board), but for a circuit board, switch the main power ‘On’ and then each individual power isolator on one at a time. The taped switches in the ‘Off’ position should stayed switched ‘Off’. WARNING: If you cannot reconnect power please ensure you seek assistance from a qualified electrician.